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Bulgaria is a small country, about half the size of the British Isles, but it has a wealth of scenic and architectural beauty. Miles of golden beaches on the Black Sea coast and spectacular mountain scenery combine with a treasure trove of ancient monasteries, churches and unspoilt mountain villages to offer something for most visitors. This is not the definitive guide to every corner of this fascinating country, but my own take on what to see and do, garnered from 27 years of family and professional visits. To put all of this in context, a section of the book called Backgrounds gives you a brief history of the country and its artforms.

Essentials - all you need to know before you go

Backgrounds 1 - The people, an introduction to the country's geography and history

Backgrounds 2 - The arts in Bulgaria.

Sofia - the nation's capital city

The Western Stara Planina - the north-west corner of the country

Stara Planina - the remainder of the Balkan Mountain range

The Danube - towns, ports, fortifications from many ages and the nature reserves

Historic Bulgaria - the medieval capitals of Bulgaria and Veliko Turnovo

The Black Sea

Plovdiv and the Rodope Mountains - Bulgaria's second city and the wonderful villages of the Rodope

The Rila and Pirin Mountains - lakes, mountain walks and Bulgaria's most important monastery, Rila